88 Nights, the traditional time for tea – and snapper.
Two seasons are named, hachiju-hachiya, or 88 Nights. First was the season for picking tea and then, because of its importance in Japanese cuisine, the season for eating snapper. Now is the time for snapper, because it is a winter fish, when it is at its fattest and has the most exceptional texture.
In Japanese, ma-dai means “real snapper” – its own class of fish. Hamon now has 14 different dishes made with several varieties of snapper like sea bream – 24 items in all on menu – for the next 3 weeks, with additional surprise dishes nightly.
Traditionally, hachiju-hachiya is the 88th day after risshun, February 4th, the first day of spring according to the Chinese calendar. It is traditionally the day when farmers would begin planting tea. All of the leaves harvested starting 88 days later.
Cold dishes include snapper roll with sea urchin, snapper with egg powder vinaigrette, and snapper with mullet caviar and mountain potato. Hot dishes include snapper with puree tofu and mushrooms, snapper cooked in a hotpot with vegetables and tofu, and snapper head braised with sake and soy. Why snapper head? The head of the fish is huge, and an interesting item to see, to cook and to eat.
The best snapper is caught now – carefully because it is one the most difficult fish to catch, to cut and to prepare. Bruising a snapper when catching it can make it unsuitable for sashimi – the meat of the fish is that fragile. And eating snapper in the wrong season leads to a similarly unsatisfactory culinary experience.
There are 100s of types of snapper in every part of the world, and the finest Hamon imports from Japan and Australia, carefully selected for the waters they inhabit, the temperature of those waters, and the size of the fish – some of the factors determining the texture and flavor of this delicious fish.
So, please join us in enjoying a symbol of strength, of winter, and of culinary tradition embodied in the snapper.
Eighty - Eight Nights
Starting October 30 until January 25
Season - a symbol of strength
Aesthetics - an art of tradition
Taste - a practice of the heart and soul
MA-DAI MATSU KAWA TSUKURI
Snapper sashimi “pine tree technique”
MA-DAI ISOBE MAKI
Snapper rolled with seaweed in egg crepe
MA-DAI KARASUMI YAMAIMO SENROPPON
Snapper karasumi caviar rolled w/ mountain potato
MA-DAI SHIRO AE MUSHI
Steamed snapper w/ puree tofu
MA-DAI ARA NI
Snapper head braised w/ sake + soy
DO BIN MUSHI
Steamed tea pot w/ hamo eel, matsutake
Chefs tasting menu is available upon request. Please reserve in advance so we can create an experience to remember.